Replace a lock when it is worn, damaged, corroded, or not up to the job; rekey it when the hardware is fine and only the keys need to change. We install Grade 1 and Grade 2 deadbolts, handlesets and lever locks, bore new deadbolt holes in doors that never had one, fix sagging doors and strike plates, and key everything to match. Same-day in most cases across San Diego County.
What you get
- Grade 1 and 2 deadbolts from Schlage, Kwikset, Baldwin and Emtek
- New deadbolt bores in doors that never had one
- Strike plates reinforced with 3-inch screws into the framing
- New locks keyed to match your existing keys where possible
- Hardware quoted up front, supplied by us or by you
Rekey or replace: an honest rule of thumb
Most locks are fine, and rekeying is the usual answer. Replace when one of these is true:
- The bolt does not throw fully, binds, or has to be forced with the key.
- The cylinder is corroded, wobbles, or has been drilled or picked in the past.
- The lock is a knob-only or a Grade 3 builder unit on a door that deserves a real deadbolt.
- The finish is peeling and you want the door to look right.
- You want a smart lock or keypad.
Everything else is a rekey. We tell you which at the door, and the rekey vs. change locks guide lays out the reasoning in detail, and what rekeying costs in San Diego puts numbers on both options.
Deadbolt grades explained
Deadbolts are rated by ANSI/BHMA. Grade 1 is the highest, tested for the most cycles and the hardest strikes; Grade 2 is solid residential; Grade 3 is basic builder hardware. A full 1-inch bolt throw and a hardened steel insert in the bolt are what you want on any exterior door.
For most San Diego front doors we recommend a Grade 1 or Grade 2 single-cylinder deadbolt from Schlage, Kwikset, Baldwin or Emtek in a finish that matches the handleset. Double-cylinder deadbolts (key on both sides) are a fire-egress concern and we only install them where they make sense and are permitted.
Need lock replacement & deadbolts today?
Call or text with your address and door count. You get a firm price before we roll.
The strike plate matters more than the lock
A deadbolt is only as strong as the jamb it throws into. Many builder installs use a thin strike plate held by two 3/4-inch screws that only reach the door casing. In our experience, when a door is kicked it is the jamb that splinters, not the lock.
Every deadbolt we install gets 3-inch strike screws driven through the jamb into the framing stud behind it, and a heavier strike plate where the door needs one. We also replace the short hinge screws on the top hinge with 3-inch screws. It is a small step that changes how the door behaves under force, and we do it on rekey visits too when asked.
Adding a deadbolt where there is none
Plenty of older homes in North Park, Golden Hill, South Park and Ocean Beach still have a single knob lock on the back door, or a decades-old deadbolt with a half-inch throw. We bore a new deadbolt hole with a jig for a clean, centered cut, chisel the edge and strike mortises, and install a deadbolt at the standard 2-3/8 or 2-3/4 inch backset to match the knob.
For rentals this also satisfies the California Civil Code 1941.3 requirement for a deadbolt on the main entry door. Landlords can see the turnover side on our landlord rekey page.
Handlesets, levers and easier-to-use hardware
Beyond deadbolts, we replace full handlesets on front doors, interior and exterior knobs, and lever locks. Levers are the right choice for anyone with grip or mobility limits and are standard on accessible entries. We match backsets and bore sizes so new hardware fits the existing holes cleanly, and we key new cylinders to your current key when the keyway allows.
Coastal corrosion and finish choices
Within a mile or so of the water, in Imperial Beach, Point Loma, Mission Beach and along the North County coast, salt air eats standard brass-plated finishes and pits cheap zinc cylinders within a few years. If you are replacing hardware near the beach, choose a lifetime or PVD finish, satin nickel or stainless over bright brass, and a solid brass cylinder. We stock coast-appropriate hardware and will say when the cheaper option is a false economy.
Matching new locks to your existing keys
A new lock does not have to mean a new key. If your house is on the Kwikset keyway, we install a Kwikset-family deadbolt and pin it to your key; same for Schlage. If you are starting fresh, this is the moment to bring the whole house onto one key with a keyed alike rekey, or to put a keypad deadbolt on the door you use most and keep keys for the rest.
Lock Replacement & Deadbolts: common questions
Should I rekey or replace my locks?
Rekey if the lock works smoothly and you only need new keys. Replace if the bolt binds, the cylinder is corroded or damaged, the lock is builder-grade on a door that matters, or you want a keypad or smart lock. We look at each door and tell you which before starting.
What deadbolt grade do I need for my house?
Grade 1 or Grade 2 for exterior doors. Grade 1 is the strongest and costs a bit more; Grade 2 is a solid residential choice. Grade 3 is builder hardware and worth upgrading on a front or garage entry door. Pair any grade with a reinforced strike plate and 3-inch screws.
Can you add a deadbolt to a door that only has a knob lock?
Yes. We bore a new hole with a jig, cut the edge and strike mortises, and install a deadbolt above the knob at a matching backset. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes per door on wood and fiberglass doors. Steel doors and doors with glass need a look first.
Do you supply the locks or should I buy my own?
Either. We carry Schlage, Kwikset and other common hardware on the truck in the usual finishes, and quote it up front. If you already bought a lock, we install it as long as it fits the door. We will tell you if a lock you bought is going to be a problem before we open the box.
Can you fix a door that will not latch or a deadbolt that sticks?
Usually, yes. Most latch problems are strike alignment or a sagging door, fixed by adjusting the strike, shimming a hinge or replacing hinge screws with longer ones. A sticking deadbolt is often a misaligned strike or a dry cylinder rather than a broken lock.
Which lock finishes hold up near the beach?
Lifetime or PVD-coated finishes, satin nickel, satin stainless and oil-rubbed bronze with a good clear coat hold up best. Bright brass and cheap plated finishes pit quickly in salt air. Ask for a solid brass cylinder rather than zinc if you are within a mile of the coast.
More answers on the FAQ page. Not sure what your door has? Send us a photo and we will tell you.
Where we do this
We do this everywhere in San Diego County, same day in most cases. Some of the places we cover:
Related guides
- Rekey vs. Change Locks: Which Do You Actually Need? – Rekeying keeps your locks and kills old keys. Replacing swaps the hardware. Decide in two minutes with costs, timing and San Diego examples.
- How Much Does It Cost to Rekey a House in San Diego? (2026) – 2026 San Diego rekey costs: service call, per-cylinder fees, keyed alike, examples for a condo, house and rental, and how to avoid surprise pricing.
- Best Smart Locks for San Diego Homes (2026 Installer Picks) – An installer's picks for the best smart locks in San Diego by use case: keypad with key backup, retrofit, Airbnb, no-app keypad, Apple Home and budget.
- Salt Air and Locks: Keeping Coastal San Diego Doors Working – How salt air corrodes door locks near the San Diego coast, which finishes and materials hold up, a maintenance routine, and when to rekey or replace.
Ready to get it done today?
Call or text for a straight answer and an upfront price. Mon–Fri 7am–8pm · Sat–Sun 8am–6pm.